Eyemouth has a colourful and bustling harbour where you can dodge the forklift trucks loading sizable vessels or join the tourists checking out both historic boats and smart yachts. Some of them stopping over on a visit from Scandinavia or the Netherlands.
An esplanade backs the town’s small beach and a path leads up the cliff to a sizable camping site.
At the other side of the bay there a large and impressive building called Gunsgreen House. It was built in 1753 and has a history of involvement in smuggling. You can visit it and get an insight into what life was like when Eyemouth, being the Scottish port nearest to the continent was a natural place for the import of illicit goods. The house and cellars are open to the public and are certainly worth a visit.
You can take boat trips, traditional ones along the coast or high speed thrill rides on a Ridged Inflatable Boat and if you are hungry perhaps dine in the harbour at Giacopazzis. (Maybe it is best delaying this until after bumping about on the waves) We enjoyed a ‘takeaway’ , A Haggis and Chips supper and found a seagull eager to join us, fortunately he was on the other side of our vehicles windscreen.
Generally the animals are friendly, Elegant swans glide and the seals that swim into the harbour can be easy to photograph. I don’t think that it is vanity on the part of the seals, it may be something to do with the van that sells fish for you to feed them.
If you wander through the narrow wynds you can find interesting places like the Fleet Pub, a cosy haunt of the local fishermen with its roaring fire, or come out into Salt Greens where there was once 29 smoke houses. There are a few left and you can still buy ‘smoked fish’.
Up on the hill beyond the golf links and overlooking the harbour approach there is a viewpoint with a recently added memorial to the 189 fishermen who perished in the Fishing Disaster of 1881, many within sight of the town. The towns museum has a 15-ft tapestry commemorating the event.
A little further along the coast is Coldingham. It is a small village with a narrow road that leads down from beside the campsite to the award winning Coldingham Sands. This is stunning stretch of gently sloping sand backed by multi coloured beach houses.
At low tide there are rock pools to explore and when the waves come rolling in there are often surfers riding the waves. Wooden picnic tables are provided and there is a café. RNLI lifeguards have a station there and are on lookout during the summer.
The coastal path that runs along the back of the bay can lead you on to St Abb’s Head.
St Abb’s Head
St Abbs Head has a working harbour and with its marine reserve it has become a popular diving centre. There are little streets with quaint cottages and some excellent walks. If you want something less strenuous try the putting green or the excellent visitor centre with its panoramic views. It is perched at the top of the steep road that leads down to the harbour. The little town is an attractive place for a day out and during the summer an excursion boat runs to Eyemouth
Allan Rogers visits
The Berwickshire Coast
We took our campervan, 'The Blue Lady' over the Border into Scotland and stopped at the first layby to appreciate the dramatic view of the Berwickshire Coast.
That first sighting had us hooked and taking the first turning off the busy A1 we followed a country road.
Ahead ahead lay the fishing port of Eyemouth, Coldingham Bay and
St Abbs Head’